Season Greetings!

New Year’s Eve 2011. I remember I celebrated that night with my cousin, her husband and some friends. At some point during the night, my cousin told us to write a (practical and possible) wish for 2012 on a paper and burn it in fire so the smoke would take the wish up. According to her, the wish would come true.

I remember my wish very well. I wrote that in 2012, I wanted to find myself a nice job somewhere in Africa. It almost came true, I got accepted to work with VSO in 2012, and although I left only in 2013, I think it still counts.

Now, it will soon be New Year’s Eve 2014. What should I wish for 2015?

I think 2015 will be an interesting year. I hope to continue the work we are doing here. Of course we will continue to donate textbooks to schools. But we also have a lot of new plans. Together with some partners we are trying to organise training for teachers in nursery schools and class one and two of primary school. If it all happens as planned, all over Cameroon over 2500 teachers will be trained and almost 65.000 pupils will benefit from that.

With Knowledge for Children we plan to start our so-called Leadership Program. The aim of this program is to make communities more pro-active, make parents understand why books are so important and get them to be actively involved in the education of their children.

Another program where I expect a lot of progress is the Income Generation Program. We will hopefully train women on some skills like soap making. We are looking at ways to use this also to increase the income of Knowledge for children.

Besides Knowledge for Children, I wish that in 2015 I will be able to keep working as a volunteer with my friends of the Rural Development Foundation. I wish that I could travel around the country a bit and see something more of Cameroon. I wish I will be able to share the beauty of this country with some friends from the Netherlands (Katja, Nima, Narges, Giuseppe, I’m waiting for you!)

I also wish for very materialistic things. I wish for the road to my house to be paved so I can safely walk to work in the rainy season, without fearing a car will hit me because the driver cannot control it anymore, and the dust which is hitting us now will be less. I wish for a constant supply of water. I wish for brown bread or just baguette to come to Kumbo. I wish for a reliable internet connection.

But most of all, I wish all of you a very happy, healthy and interesting new year. I thank everyone for the support I get from you, in whatever way.

I miss my family and friends in the Netherlands, in Benin and in Nigeria, but I am happy to be with my friends here in Cameroon. So maybe I am far, but in my heart I am still with all of you. Thank you for being with me, and I hope to meet you all in 2015!

Silence Kills! Talk to me about HIV and Aids

The first of December is World Aids Day. According to the Cameroonian statistics, about 3% of all Cameroonians live with HIV. UNAIDS is giving different numbers, according to them, 4,5% of all Cameroonians is HIV positive. (To compare, UNAIDS is giving the following numbers: Nigeria; 3,1%, Swaziland; 26,5% and the Netherlands; 0,2%)

Health Scouts of GPS Kiyan

In the North West Region, the hospitals try to test every pregnant woman during her fourth month of pregnancy. If a woman tests positive, they treat her to reduce the chances of the baby to be HIV positive.

Of all the pregnant women who do the test (what is the vast majority) 7,6% is testing positive. This makes me wonder how accurate the numbers of the Cameroonian government and UNAIDS are. Like in many African countries, the taboo on HIV and Aids is big. People don’t get tested. So I am wondering how many people live here who don’t know their status. In the end, these women don’t get infected by themselves…

Knowledge for Children, our partner Rural Development Foundation (RDF) and the two main hospitals in Kumbo came together to celebrate World Aids Day 2014. The hospitals were offering free voluntary counselling and testing. In this way, we hope at least some more people are aware of their status.

Two Health Clubs of Knowledge for Children schools were performing songs and sketches to sensitize people in the market. They sensitize about HIV and Aids, but also against stigmatization and taboo. One of the slogans they used was; ‘Silence kills! Talk to me about HIV and Aids’.

Health Scouts of GS Shisong

I am afraid they are right. Like in the Netherlands, people can receive treatment here for HIV. This doesn’t cure the disease, but allows you to live for long. But people are so scared, maybe especially because of the stigma, that they don’t get tested.

I will never forget the woman I met in Cotonou in 2006. She came to the hospital and told the doctor; ‘I have a problem. I am four months pregnant but my husband doesn’t know I am HIV positive. How do I get a healthy baby, without my husband finding out about my status?’ The taboo, the stigma, is preventing people from talking to their partners. They are scared to take the test, they don’t know their status and infect others.

The stigma is not easy to fight. But I think it is important that we try. Our Health Clubs are a way to make children talk about HIV and Aids, even before they become sexually active. Also for them and their teachers, it is not always easy to talk about HIV. But silence kills, let’s talk about it. Talk to your children, to your family and fight the stigma!

About drivers and teachers

In Kumbo, there are not many white people who drive. And, there are also very few women who drive. So, me driving a car is a strange phenomenon for many people here. So strange that people start shouting when they see me drive a car. If I pass a motorbike, the driver and his passenger(s) start pointing and shouting.

For me, driving in Cameroon is also quite an experience. Within Kumbo it is ok. The roads are not great, but most of them are doable. The road to the main city close by is very fine. Driving to Yaoundé is no problem as long as someone else drives in the main cities.

But, going to rural communities, that is quite an adventure! This week we trained teachers in two very rural communities. The first one was still ok, but reaching the second school was not so easy. The problem in the rainy season is that you don’t see how deep the potholes are as they are filled with water. So often you just hope you can really pass and will not get stuck in the mud.

Even more scary, very narrow paths, with very slippery clay, just enough space for your wheels and a pothole of a meter deep between your wheels. There is not much risk for heavy accidents in these roads, but I am scared to get stuck somewhere in the middle of nowhere! Fortunately, it all went well so far!

After the driving, the next adventure is to train the teachers. I knew not all teachers are very well trained. But still I am shocked. Teachers who think you write best with an a. Teachers who are really surprised when you tell them they should not beat a child with a book. Teachers who only ask questions to the entire class, being totally unaware of slow learners and individual differences. (If you want a child to answer ‘church’ you can ask Mary where she goes on Sunday morning, but Ibrahim will tell you he goes to the market!).

Like in Nigeria, the favourite teaching method is to have the entire class repeating the teacher; say after me; verbs! Again; verbs! Again; verbs! People don’t realise that in that way a child doesn’t learn what a verb is. I have seen that a lot in Nigeria. Classes full of children who can repeat the alphabet, but don’t ask them to come forward and point to p, they don’t know!

In the next few years, Knowledge for Children will focus more and more on training of teachers. Hopefully, at least some of them will get some ideas how to deal with their classes and teach effectively. And hopefully in that way, the children in the rural areas of Cameroon will get better education, will be able to read and write very well and will get many more opportunities in their lives!

Home(s)

Travelling — it gives you a home in a thousand strange places, then leaves you a stranger in your own land - Ibn Battuta

Ibn Battuta lived in the 14^th century. Of course, by that time it was difficult to keep in touch with home. Nowadays, that is easier. But still… I feel a bit similar.

I was in the Netherlands for almost three weeks. It was great to see my family and friends, to play with the dogs, to meet the daughter of my best friend and all the other babies born in the last year. It was nice to be able to enter a shop without the entire staff running to me (‘Chickpeas, is that like chicken?’), to walk in the streets without people shouting and staring at me and to see the great Dutch roads where people actually drive on the right instead of in the middle trying to avoid potholes. It was a culture shock to see white women driving a car or to go to a supermarket and see all these products.

Going to the supermarket was a crazy experience, there is so much choice! (Why do you need to choose between ten types of apples, or ten different spice mixes to cook nasi goreng? I never thought about it, but now I was really wondering why we need so much choice). At the same time, some foods are so much better here in Cameroon. Oranges here taste like oranges instead of water, bananas here smell like banana and avocados are so much bigger, tastier and cheaper here.

But most importantly, it was strange to see how little people smile, how much people complain about small things.  It was kind of weird to walk in town without talking to strangers. It was strange to buy things without having a talk with the lady selling the eggs, tomatoes or oranges.

I remember that when I left Benin in 2006 I quoted a song of the Dutch singer Stef Bos. In Dutch; ‘Diep in het zuiden ligt misschien mijn toekomst, maar ik ben zo bang dat ik het missen zal, het hoge noorden met zijn koude winters en de grijze hemel waar de sneeuw uit valt’.  (Roughly translated; deep in the south might be my future, but I am scared I will miss the north with its cold winters and grey snowy skies). It’s true, I miss the Netherlands while I’m here. But when I am in the Netherlands I also miss my African life.

I think I am home in several places. In the Netherlands, in Benin, in Nigeria, in Cameroon. At the same time, will I be really home anywhere again? I think that wherever I will be, I will miss something. So yes, I am home in different places, but also a stranger at home (wherever that home will be). It seems like these things didn’t change since the 14^th century!

Football

Somewhere in the 1990s, Cameroon played the world cup football. I remember that a lot of Dutch people were really supporting Cameroon. Their players were not paid as much as ours, they didn’t play in European competitions. Most of them were working as mechanics or carpenters and just played football because they liked it.

Now, the world cup is taking place again. Cameroon is participating. But instead of carpenters and mechanics, the players are professionals now. They left Cameroon a day late because they were fighting their national football association about salaries. Most famous player is of course Eto’o (who plays for Chelsea).

Cameroonians love football and the expectations for the national team were very high. Everyone was aware that their group is very difficult (Brazil, Mexico and Croatia) but still. People were hoping for some nice matches. The first match was still fine; they lost but only 1-0. But the second match was a disaster. They got beaten by Croatia with 4-0. Most painful however was the way this happened. I didn’t watch the match myself, but I heard so many stories about it. How they started fighting amongst themselves, how they were misbehaving.

Almost everyone I talk to is so disappointed. Not only about the loss. More about the fact that Cameroon had not scored any goal in five world cup matches. And especially about the behaviour of their players. On Facebook a picture is circulating that asks Boko Haram to bring back the kidnapped girls and take 23 heavily overpaid and misbehaving players instead.

People are ashamed and say; people all over the world see these matches. What would they think about Cameroon now? Many people don’t know anything about Cameroon and now they see this. Now the entire world thinks that this is how Cameroon is, that we are all idiots who fight amongst themselves.

So, just to make it clear; there are apparently some crazy overpaid football profs in the country. But, no, not every Cameroonian is like this! Most Cameroonians I met so far are friendly, nice, sweet and helpful. Most Cameroonians I met so far are working hard to make a living for their families and send their children to school. And most Cameroonians I met so far feel bad about the way their players are behaving. So, no, these overpaid players you see on TV are not representative for Cameroon!

KforC

Knowledge for Children is working in rural primary schools. I grew up in a village in the Netherlands and did attend a rural primary school as well. I am not sure if I had exactly the same opportunities as children in urban schools (especially regarding sports, art, etc.) but I don’t think I was very disadvantaged being in a rural school. We had teachers, we had proper classrooms, we had books, we had computers, we had everything we needed to learn. Some of my classmates were children of farmers, they could still go to school and didn’t have to stay home to help in busy times.

I am getting more and more aware that this is all not as normal as it sounds to us. In many schools where we work, children don’t have the same opportunities as pupils in cities. Their teachers are not qualified, if they are there at all. Textbooks are a rare thing. Classrooms might be in need of renovation. There is often no light or running water. And many children have to help in the farm or market before, after or during school hours.

In short, if you are a child in Cameroon and you are unlucky enough to be born in the rural areas of your country, you are disadvantaged from the very beginning. The chances you have to make it to higher education are low, simply because you don’t have the facilities. It doesn’t have anything to do with your intelligence or motivation, but how will you be able to read and write well if you have no books and your teachers don’t really know how to teach you?

Last week I visited a few private (and very expensive) private primary schools in Douala, the commercial centre of Cameroon. It was quite shocking to see the differences. Books everywhere, computer labs, highly qualified teachers, very nice school buildings. My colleague and I were really wondering if the children in our schools would recognise this as a school. They can’t imagine that something like this also exists.

Knowledge for Children tries to improve the standards of education in the rural schools we are working. We work together with the community, normally represented by the Parent Teacher Association (PTA). We donate textbooks but the community also has to raise money to also buy books. In three years, schools will receive textbooks on word and sound building, English language, French language, mathematics and two more subjects chosen by the school.

We buy books which are officially recognised by the Ministry of Basic Education to make sure the books can really be used in the classrooms. Besides donating books, we also sensitize parents and community members on the importance of education. We try to teach them that they are also responsible for the education of their children and can (and should!) hold the school in account.

In many cases, teachers are not very well trained (the formal study to become a primary school teachers takes nine months!). Therefore we also train teachers, focussing again on literacy. We believe that if teachers can teach better, and use the textbooks effectively, literacy rates will raise.

Besides educational projects we also work on health. Rural children are vulnerable to HIV/Aids and malaria and have little or no knowledge about basic hygiene. In forty schools we are running Health Clubs. These clubs are formed by pupils and work under the motto; ‘good health for quality education’. We train the health scouts and their coordinators (one teacher and one community members) on health issues and on ways how to educate the other children in their school, their parents and the rest of the community on healthy practises like washing hands.

What makes Knowledge for Children very special is that we do everything together with the community. We are not going to give them books which are put in a cupboard and never come out again. Communities have to contribute financially and every time we visit the school to donate books parents have to be there (if not, we are taking the books back to Kumbo).

In this way, we want to make our work sustainable and we can reach these communities that are ready to get things work. By doing so, we hope to prevent that we end up ‘feeding the hippos' (see the first minutes of the movie below).

First impressions of Cameroon

I am for four weeks in Cameroon now and it is very hard for me to write a nice blog about it. I have had so many impressions, so many ideas, so many changes. I think it is impossible to summarize it. But, let’s give it a try!

Differences between Ilorin and Kumbo

Kumbo

When I arrived in Nigeria, I had a culture shock. Now, arriving in Kumbo, I have a culture shock again. I do still find it difficult to point the differences between Nigeria and its neighbouring countries. But somehow you can feel it. I have the impression that Nigerians in general don’t trust strangers. This makes your life hard, if you always have to wonder if that person wants to do something bad, you have to be aware all the time. Here the feeling is different.
When I went to the market in Ilorin, people were really grabbing my arm and pulling me into their shop; BUY FABRIC! No, I want to buy tomatoes! And then a discussion was following. When I go to the market here, people ask me; Hello ma’ how are you? Do you want to buy fabric? And if I say no, tomatoes, they will point me to someone who sells tomatoes and wish me a nice day.
When we were looking for a house in Ilorin, everybody was telling me we could only arrange that through people we know, otherwise it would be too dangerous. Here I was looking for a house and all my colleagues encouraged me to ask strangers as well. In the end I found a house through the landlord of our office, but the approach is very different.
At the downside of Kumbo are definitely the roads. The rainy season has started and every morning there is less road left between my house and the office. There are only two paved roads and all others become extremely slippery when it rains as it all becomes red mud. It is very hilly here so it is quite dangerous.
Another thing I miss from Nigeria is the spice in the food. Yoruba people eat a lot of ‘pepe’ but here in many dishes there is no spice at all. In Nigeria they sell chili peppers in huge quantities, here it is only ‘small small’.
And last but not least, I miss the internet connection from Nigeria. I thought the MTN fast link (cruel joke!) was the slowest ever. I now know that is not true…

Knowledge for Children

Donating books to a school

I will soon write an entire blog post about my new job. But for now, I really like working here. The staff is very committed and motivated. The projects are great and there are a lot of ideas to make it even better.
What I like is that we are not a NGO who goes to bring some boxes of books. We only donate books if the community (parents) also buy books. They buy them through our office and after they did, we will also donate our part. Over three years, they buy 30% of the books. In this way, they are really involved.

Health club member teaching how to wash your hands

Another interesting program is the health program. In several schools we have health clubs. These clubs consist of about 30-40 pupils. They are trained on health issues like HIV and aids, malaria and hygiene. They also learn how to share their knowledge with their classmates and parents. I have seen some nice sketches performed by the health club members to sensitise their parents on hand washing.

As I said, I will soon write more about Knowledge for Children. For now, check out our Facebook page. And if you like to contribute, you can either donate straight to the bank account NL37 INGB 000 (BIC/SWIFT code: INGBNL2A) or use the tool at the right!

Byebye Nigeria, Hello Cameroon!

Since a week, I am in Cameroon. It was not easy to say byebye to everyone there. But, it is good to move on as well.

My departure from Nigeria was in style, I was sick at the day I had to travel down to Lagos, my flight was delayed for about 7 hours and I wasn’t allowed to take any extra luggage, but I could take it as extra hand luggage. Arriving in Cameroon was a very different experience. At the airport, everything went very smooth. Very different from my arrival in Nigeria a year ago!

Cameroon, and especially the region around here, is very beautiful. Everything is so green and hilly. It is really a pretty place. So I can really recommend people to visit me here, there will be something for everyone! Here in Kumbo, temperatures are also friendly. Coming from Nigeria, I am really freezing at night. I guess I will get used to it soon.

Roads are very bad. In my town there are two paved roads (with a lot of potholes). All the other ones are mud roads. Now that the rainy season has started, you can see there is less road every day. The red mud also becomes rather slippery when it rains, so it is a bit dangerous as well, especially by motorbike.

People are very nice. There are quite some white people in Kumbo so most people are used to it. Contrary to Nigeria, they are not very pushy. I went to the market and nobody even tried to touch me and drag me into their shops. People ask what you want to buy and if it is something they don’t sell they will advise you where to find it, instead of trying to sell you something totally different. Probably they understand you might come back to them when you need whatever they sell if they treat you nicely.

It seems like the post system here is reliable. So, I am waiting for all postcards and packages! Food I can find here is pretty basic, so everything what you can store for long is very welcome! Send me an email for my address if you need it. Also, if you need my Cameroonian phone number, please drop me an email.

I will really start working this week. So hopefully I will soon be able to tell you all more about that. So far, it looks great. Staff is very passionate about the work, the projects are running well and communities and schools are actively involved. It seems like a great place to work for me. Stay tuned for updates about that!

Thank you!

It a strange feeling; leaving Kwara, leaving my friends and work, leaving my home away from home. I am really leaving with mixed feeling. I am excited to go to Cameroon, look forward to the new job and can’t wait to learn more about my new organisation.

But, Nigeria has brought me so much. This has really been a life changing experience. In many respects, professionally I gained a lot, socially I had a great time. So, what did it bring me?

A lot of pleasure in working with Moshood, we were a great team and I will always remember it. Great results of our volunteers; principals report they are performing well and exam scores improve. A lot of flexibility, to change training schedules when we have to leave the room two hours early, to change plans for the day if we are without light again, to change times as no-one is in time, to change ideas because they don’t work out in Nigerian context, to change from a PowerPoint presentation to flipchart sheets if there is no light.

Taxi drivers stopping for me asking where my bicycle is and knowing exactly where I am going to. Random people asking about my bicycle, people at the border asking if I am that white woman with a bicycle when I travelled to Cotonou, colleagues asking about my bicycle, people staring at me while riding my bicycle, people I newly meet saying; ‘I know you, you live in Basin and you have a bicycle’.

Very nice friends, VSO volunteers, Nigerians and other expats in Abuja. Lots of nice barbecue fish with my friend John and barbecue parties with Miranda, Stefan, Stacey and Tamara. Many hugs from children in the neighbourhood. Fun when the kids of my beans ladies shout Oyibo! Esly! Oyibo! Esly! every day they see me.

A great road trip over the Christmas holidays, seeing a bit of Nigeria. The marriage of our Dutch friend with his Nigerian wife, especially the explanation of her uncle. A neighbour cutting my hair with a lot of little girls standing around me to collect the hair. Admiration for Nigerians who can repair anything with everything.

But also, many days without light, writing reports by hand, making me buy only the food I need that day as you can’t store anything fresh. My first-ever malaria, (what was not as bad as it could be). A lot of crazy rides, in almost collapsing vehicles, with crazy drivers and horrible roads. Corruption on the border, corruption in the Ministry, people giving us cars full of plantain to make us support their schools, blank receipts at filling stations, corruption everywhere. Schools with no teachers, no books, no nothing. Lots of unwanted attention from men. People trying to rob me of because I am white.

This has been an experience I will never forget. And I want to thank everyone who contributed to this, especially the ones who contributed to the positive aspects. I hope to see you in Cameroon!

Life is what happens to you....

...while you’re busy making other plans, John Lennon sang.

In the past months, I was planning my life in Kwara. I intended to stay at least till December, I planned what kind of work I would be doing, I did some repairs in the house. And then, life came by… While I was so busy planning, other things were happening.

To sum it all up very briefly, I will leave Nigeria on the 18^th of April and move to Cameroon. I will start working there as the country director for Knowledge for Children, a Dutch-Cameroonian NGO.

I’m leaving with a lot of mixed feelings. I will miss Kwara, my friends and colleagues, the people in the neighbourhood and the NGVP project I have been working in. Nigeria became a bit of home in the past year. Part of my heart will always be there, like it is always in Benin and in the Netherlands.

At the same time, I am very excited about the new position. I talked to a couple of people from this NGO and it all seems very good. I am excited to work on several topics which I love; education, HIV / AIDS. I am looking forward to live in a place with a cooler climate and with a lot of fresh vegetables readily available at the market. I can’t wait to learn more about the co-financing of projects to guarantee sustainability. And of course I am curious about living in a new country.

The journey continues!

One year in Nigeria

A year ago, I was very busy packing and preparing my leave. Can you imagine it is a year ago already that I left the Netherlands and arrived in Nigeria? It has not always been easy, but time still flies! I will be in Nigeria for a few more months. I am telling everyone I stay because my partner doesn’t allow me to leave. But well, I am not ready to go yet. Work is not yet done, and also socially, I am getting more and more happy here.

Of course I miss my family and friends. Of course I feel sad that my best friend got a baby in October and I will not meet her till June. Of course I miss the variety of food (cheese!). Of course I miss the possibility to go out without everyone shouting at me, especially when riding my bicycle. Of course I miss having a fridge without a cockroach family living in it. And of course I also miss having constant light and water. But, if I would go back to the Netherlands now, I am sure I would also miss Nigeria.

I would miss drinking water from plastic bags and eating groundnuts from glass bottles. I would miss the taxi rides with 5 school children and me on the backseat of a crappy old car. I would miss the children screaming when they see me (from excitement or from fear). I would miss the cheering of the children in the neighbourhood when ‘they bring light’ in the night. I would miss buying fresh pineapples, watermelons and oranges on every corner of the street. I would miss being stuck in traffic in the city because some Fulani herdsmen are passing with their cattle.  I would miss people telling me I really look like Robin van Persie when they hear I am Dutch. I would even miss the days in the office without light, writing reports by hand.

I would miss eating moinmoin and pounded yam (and especially the comments from people when they see me doing that). I would miss entering a taxi and finding out the other passenger has a living chicken on his lap.  I would miss the excitement from women when they find out my hair is all natural. I would miss the doctors who want to take your blood pressure for any health issue you have (including skin allergy). I would miss the people coming to our office mainly to charge their phones. I would miss starting every meeting or training with a prayer. I would miss the people in Shoprite who spent half of their day there ‘snapping’ pictures. I would miss people telling me ‘well done’ for only sitting in my office or waiting for a taxi. I would even miss the random people telling me that I should get at least one baby (soon).

Yes, this is a crazy country. But it is the crazy country with a lot of nice people. My friends and colleagues, the people in my neighbourhood, the national volunteers with who we work, it is their country. And yes, it is also a bit MY crazy country by now.

Winter Olympics in Nigeria

Back in the Netherlands, I always watch a lot of speed skating, especially events like the Olympics. Of course, it is a bit more difficult here. Nigeria is not exactly the country of winter sports. Fortunately, there is a South African sports channel which is broadcasting a lot of Olympic sports. I don’t have a TV, but my friends have. So, I saw Sven Kramer winning his gold medal on the five kilometre ice skating.

Watching skating on a South African TV channel was an interesting experience. Like Nigeria, also South Africa is not really well known for winter sports. So, they explain all sports. What is nice in sports like freestyle skiing or curling. But, what do you explain about ice skating?

Well, quite lot! For example, you have to explain that all competitors have to skate the same distance and that the one who does this in the shortest time, is the winner. Or, you explain that they have to change lanes every lap (yes Kramer as well!). Or, you tell your audience (at least five times) that two skaters compete at the same time. So, the person in the most inner lane is only warming up, it is not the third competitor so don’t look at him. That is also why that lane has a different colour.

Also, the concept of a ‘clap skate’ (no joke) was explained. And of course we saw a short summary of the Vancouver Olympics including the ten kilometres where ‘Sven Kremer’ did not change lanes, and the 1500 metres where ‘Mark Tietert’ won the gold medal.

What I really liked was the enthusiasm of the reporter. In the Netherlands, our reporters get very enthusiast when a Dutch is skating, or when someone is performing very well. If a Polish skater is finishing in a time of 6.26 Dutch reporters might say this is very good for him, but they will not say it is so great and he is so quick and doing so fantastic. Here they do… What is fun, it gives you the feeling he did so great and might win a gold medal. Of course, the winner was 16 seconds faster. But it feels like everyone has a similar chance to win.

I think my Nigerian colleagues will tell me I am crazy when I tell them I watched ice skating this weekend. But I am very happy that I can still keep up with a few things from my own culture. And watching skating is definitely one of the nice and harmless Dutch traditions I like to keep!

 

(I am afraid I will not be able to watch much more. So every SMS or what’s app with live updates is welcome!)

Monkeys, carnival, blankets and haloumi cheese

If I think about Christmas, I think about snow, about long dark nights and staying inside, away from the cold. You can imagine, Christmas in Nigeria is not exactly like that…

This year I celebrated Christmas with a road trip (which turned out to be an off-road trip for some parts) to the south east of Nigeria. Final destination was Calabar, a city close to the border with Cameroon. And it is a totally different world. Of course, this country is huge so differences should be big. But they really are. What makes it very interesting to travel!

Drill monkey

The first stop we made was at Afi mountain, close to Cameroon as well. Here, a NGO is working with/for drill monkeys and chimpanzees. They take care of them and the final goal is to release the drill monkeys back into the wild.

It is a very beautiful place, in the middle of the rain forest (sweaty!). They have power through solar panels, but no phone network for example. So you feel like you are really far away from the city. If you are looking for nature, don’t look any further!
Although we really enjoyed our stay, I have a lot of mixed feelings about the project as well. They aim to release monkeys back into the wild. I think releasing primates is very difficult. But I really believe that if you want to make it happen, you have to treat the animals as what they are; wild animals. They are not pets, they should know how to look for and catch or find their own food. They have to be aware that humans are their enemy (especially in a place where bush meat is very popular). I am afraid that this is not what monkeys learn when you feed them every day at the same place. They told us they have the fifth generation of drill monkeys now which live in their premises. I am just not sure how a fifth generation monkey, so used to being fed and used to humans being their friends, will be able to survive in the wild.


Rainforest

At the same time, I admire their effort and I also agree we should try to preserve the drill monkeys from extinction. But if it turns out to be pretty much impossible to release them, maybe that idea should just be given up? Another NGO in the region, working on similar things, are now trying to find funding for a PhD student to research how to release primates back into the wild. I really hope that will happen and that research will bring some good ideas.

Calabar Carnival

After Afi, we travelled to Calabar. I am so used to Ilorin now, that I got very excited to see green grass fields, in front of schools for example. Amazing how green everything is down there!

Christmas in Calabar also means carnival time. We had a great time at the cultural parade. As our car had diplomatic plates (two friends with who we travelled work at the Greek embassy), we got a real VIP spot, next to the governor and the ambassador of Rwanda. Somehow, they thought our friend (with blue hair!) was the ambassador as well. But well, this confusion led to the perfect spot to see all the traditional dances from all over Nigeria. Really nice! When I see this kind of things I feel so sad being Dutch, where we only know things like polonaises…
After this, we enjoyed a Christmas dinner at our friend’s house. Very nice to celebrate Christmas with a group of people. But no, the white landscape and the cold were far away. Although dark nights are very common here, especially without power of course!

Carnival!



Obudo Cattle Ranch

After a few days in Calabar, we travelled back north again, making a stop at Obudu Cattle Ranch. This place is now mainly used as a conference center. There is a big resort, which is a bit old but still very popular. If you are walking around there, you don’t believe you are in Nigeria. There are mountains, a cable cart and good quality roads. We stayed in a lodge very close by, much more basic but nice.

As the ranch is pretty high in the mountains, it gets quite cold there. After ten months in Nigeria, often without a fan, I was really freezing at night. I think temperature dropped to 15 degrees Celsius, but I really needed two blankets and was still kind of cold. (I will suffer when I come back to the Netherlands!).

We travelled back and celebrated New Years Eve in Abuja. We had a lovely dinner, cooked by our Greek friends. So, no ‘oliebollen’ but haloumi, Greek salad and much more.

Now I am back in Ilorin and ready to go back to work. Excited to start a new year, full of new adventures!



Sunset at Obudo